What to do in Córdoba after you’ve seen La Mezquita

As the capital of Arab Al-Andalus (and of the Roman province of Hispania Ulterior before that), it’s no surprise that the Andalusian city of Córdoba would boast one of history’s largest mosques. The Mezquita, with its one-of-a-kind forest of columns, could fit over 20,000 people, making it one of the world’s largest mosques or gathering places of any kind. And though no trip to Córdoba would be complete without a trip to La Mezquita, now a Catholic cathedral, this historical city boasts many other landmarks stretching back to well before the this UNESCO World Heritage Site was built. Here are just a few.

The Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos

We all know where Christopher Columbus landed and some may even know where he departed, but equally important in his first contact with the New World was the spot where he met with Isabella I of Castile and Ferdinand II of Aragon to receive his blessing for making the voyage. That was right here in the Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos. Set right on the Guadalquivir River, this was originally the site of a Visigoth fortress. The present building was built by the Moors (Al-Qasr, means “the Palace”) and was taken by the Christians in 1236 during the Reconquista and was mostly rebuilt by Alfonso XI of Castile in 1386. Since serving as one of the residences of Isabella and Ferdinand, the Alcázar was also one of many sites for the infamous Inquisition and later served as a garrison for Napoleon Bonaparte’s troops in 1810. While visiting you’ll see the Patio Morisco (”Courtyard of the Moriscos”),the Torre de los Leones (”Tower of the Lions) and the Torre de Homenaje (”Tower of Homage”), as well as a series of Roman mosaics and a Roman sarcophagus in the Inquisition Tower. If you want to spend the night in a room that actually hosted Columbus himself, check out room 204 of the nearby Hacienda Posada de Vallina Hotel.

Córdoba Synagogue

During the rule of the Moors, Al-Andalus was a place where Muslim, Christian and Jew lived together in a multi-cultural society. Evidence of this can be seen in the Jewish Quarter of Córdoba and especially in the Córdoba Synagogue. Built in the Moorish Mudéjar style, this 14th century treasure consists of a courtyard, a prayer room and a women’s gallery up above, reflecting the separation of the sexes required by synagogues of the time. The prayer room is quite impressive when seen through the three ornate decorative arches of the gallery, and vice versa. After the Jews were expelled by Isabella and Ferdinand in 1492, the building served as a hospital, a chapel, a school and many other functions until becoming a national monument in 1885. Restorations in 1929 and 1977-1985 (to celebrate the 850th birthday of Córdoba resident Maimomodes. have brought it to its present state, and it’s the only synagogue in Andalusia to survive the expulsion and inquisition of the Jews. One of the nicer hotels in the area is the Hospederia Del Churrasco.

Museo Taurino

What would Spain be without its bullfighting? This is a question best not asked in Córdoba. Especially if you’re in the Museo Taurino. This museum to the cruel yet exciting sport is located in the 16th century Casa Zoco, which is located in the Plaza de las Bulas. The museum is divided into two sections; one dedicated to bullfighting and the smaller section devoted to the crafts of leatherwork and silversmithing. In the first you’ll find displays of bullfighting equipment and mementos of famous Córdoba-born toreros such as Lagartijo, Machaco, Guerrita, Manolete and the appropriately-named El Córdobes. The house itself, with its Mudéjar influenced patio, is also worth seeing. Don’t miss the replica of the Manolete mausoleum and a stuffed head of Isleroz the bull that killed him in 1947. If you want to see the real thing, Córdoba’s bullfighting season starts in May during the Feria de Córdoba (Córdoba Fair), and if you want to stay in a hotel convenient to the museum, the four-star Hotel NH Amistad Córdoba is set right across the street.

Museo Arqueológico de Córdoba

Situated within the beautiful Renaissance Palace of the Paéz family, the Museo Arqueológico de Córdoba gives you Iberian, Roman, Visigothic, Muslim, Mudéjar and Renaissance history in the form of many many artifacts. By now you’ve probably seen many buildings dating back to all eras – this is the museum that will show you what items were in these buildings. What makes this site appropriate for this museum is the genuine Roman patio that was discovered during its original conversion. Now one of the most imaginative and pleasant small museums in Spain, the museum boasts with an excellent collection. Don’t miss the outstanding inlaid tenth-century bronze stag that was found at the Moorish palace of Medina Azahara. And you’re sure not to remember the Roman archeology including mosaics and sculptures that takes up a full floor for a long time to come, as well as all the amazing Moorish artifacts. Just over a block away is the traditional whitewashed Cordoban house, tavern and wine cellar, dating back to 1874 and housing the Hotel Plateros.

Córdoba’s Gardens

Córdoba can be oppressively hot in the summer, and one way to beat the heat is to visit the multi-colored flowers, green bushes and trickling waters of its many gardens, starting with the Mezquita’s Patio de los Naranjos. But I promised not to talk about the Mezquita, so I’ll talk about two other gardens worth visiting. The first is the Jardines de la Victoria, which features two wonderful newly renovated facilities, the old Caseta del Círculo de la Amistad and the Kiosko de la música. There’s also a more recent Modernist fountain from the early 20th century and a neo-classical pergola designed by the architect Carlos Sáenz de Santamaría. The second is the Jardines de la Agricultura, which boasts many trails that converge on a round square with a duck pond. In the center of the pond is an island with a small building for the ducks. Look for the park’s many sculptures, and don’t miss the rose garden on the northern end which forms a labyrinth.