Subterranean Europe

Yes, winter comes even to the beaches of St. Tropez and the coves of Crete turning the 24-hour summer sunlight of Iceland into perpetual darkness. But why wait for the sun to go away when you can go away from the sun? The fact is that some of the most amazing sights in Europe are underground!

Dan-yr-Ogof, Wales

For example, some of the most beautiful caves on the continent can be found in south Wales. Seventeen kilometres of caves make Dan yr Ogof one of Wales’s most popular attractions and, according to a 2005 Radio Times poll, the greatest natural wonder in England. Rich colors, colossal stalactites and stalagmites dazzle the eyes, while the bones of many animals and 42 human beings unfortunate to get lost in the caves awaken the imagination. Hardcore cavers can enjoy the whole of the cave system, but the regular tourist can still expect an amazing experience in the first section, which is the only one open to non-cavers. For natural wonders above ground, the caves are set within the beautiful Brecon Beacons National Park, and when it’s time to bed down on something softer than rock, there are also many nearby hotels in the town of Brecon.

Catacombes de Paris, Paris

If you think the streets of Paris are crowded, wait until you see what’s under the streets. The ossuary known as the Catacombes de Paris contains the bones of hundreds of thousands of Parisians, all stacked in the most creative patterns. When the city’s graveyards ran out of space, the bones were dug up and relocated in the tunnels remaining from the ancient stone mines beneath the city, and tourists have been flocking to see this ghastly yet whimsical sight since 1867. Though the bones fill just a fraction of the 300 kilometres of tunnel, it can be quite overwhelming, and just a fraction of the ossuary is open to the public. The bones are organized into the cemeteries from which they came and in some cases, the catacombs allow you to revisit historical events. Like the riots leading up to the French Revolution in the Place de Grève, Hôtel de Brienne, and Rue Meslée, whose dead were put in their own section on 28 and 29 August 1788. The entrance is at the Place Denfert-Rochereau, and the closest hotel is the Hôtel Du Midi Paris Montparnasse.

Sacromonte, Granada

If you’re looking for something a little livelier, how about some underground Flamenco dancing, accompanied by a great meal and some sangria? That’s what you’ll find when you visit the section of Granada known as Sacromonte. Set high over the city, Sacromonte offers spectacular views of the Alhambra and the Albaicín on the outside, but it’s inside its famous caves that Sacromonte sizzles. Sacromonte’s residents have been living in caves for centuries, and the area’s shops, restaurants, bars and Flamenco houses are also set in caves. Of course the caves are now equipped with electricity, plumbing and all the other modern comforts, making them more desirable than the city’s houses, as they’re cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. Though you can stay in Sacromonte hotels, the lion’s share of Granada hotels are down the hill, but most will set you up with shuttles to take you to the Flamenco shows.

Beneath Rome

If you want to see why Rome is called the Eternal City, you must go underneath. And with the archeological research group Rome Sotterranea now opening their adventures to the public, you can see sights that haven’t been widely seen for centuries, if not longer. Beautiful temples and mosaics live in the dark beside still-active sewers that have been processing the city’s refuse for millennia. Beneath the Coliseum are the skulls of tigers, giraffes, bears, and other animals used in the shows. Beneath the 12^th century Basilica of San Clemente are the remnants of a 4^th century Basilica and the 1^st century Temple of Mithras. Rome Sotterranea also offers tailor-made guided tours through sites like ancient aqueduct pipes, the Emissary of Nemi Lake and the secret passages beneath Villa Adriana. But be sure to make your reservation early (visite@romasotterranea.it), as they require at least 15 days in order to obtain permits for these very special sites. Chances are you’ll remember the ancient sewers every time you use the bathroom in your Rome hotel.

Škocjan Caves, Slovenia

Far from Wales but just south of Ljubljana, in the beautiful region of Kras is where you’ll find a network of caves so beautiful that they’ve been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Škocjan Caves, visited by 100,000 people a year are a must-see for visitors to the capital city. Formed by the Reka River going underground and staying underground for 34 kilometres, the caves themselves are 3.5 kilometres long, 10 to 60 metres wide and over 140 metres high. The largest of the many chambers created by the water is Martel’s Chamber, which boasts an awesome 2.2 million cubic metres, making it the largest underground chamber in Europe and one of the largest in the world. Don’t miss the awesome sight of the river disappearing into the ground, and don’t miss the steps that were cut to the bottom of Velika Dolina back in 1819.  The caves are not far from the Italian border and the city of Trieste, and they’re even closer to the hotels of Ljubljana.