Off the Beaten Path: Monte Argentario, Tuscany

In 1962, once the news broke of their tempestuous love affair, Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor fled the set of Cleopatra (which they were filming in Rome at the time) to seek solace from the paparazzi and other prying eyes. They drove up the coast and wound up in Monte Argentario, an idyllic retreat that to this day remains surprisingly untouched by modern tourism.

The stunning natural beauty and carefree atmosphere of Monte Argentario have been carefully guarded by the Romans over the years. Its secret nature is aided by its out-of-the-way location, jutting into the Tyrrhenian Sea from the coast of the southern part of Maremma, in Tuscany. On a map, Monte Argentario looks like an island—and, historically, it was. However, over the centuries, sand accumulated into two strips that today connect the faux island to the mainland and also enclose the protected lagoon of Orbetello. (There is also a third, central strip that is partially man-made.) Once there, you will find historic landmarks from the sixteenth century as well as incredible beaches and rugged wildlife.

There are two main towns in Monte Argentario. One is Porto Santo Stefano, home to the ancient Fortezza Spagnola (Spanish Fort.) The 16^th-century landmark has been renovated to house the unusual Museum of the Masters of the Axe, as well as a “Submerged Memories” exhibit of archaeological finds from the sea. There is also an aquarium, and a lovely seaside promenade. For an especially fun afternoon, rent a boat or take a ferry through the islands of the Tuscan archipelago, stopping on Giglio and Giannutri.

The second of the two port towns on the “island” is Porto Ercole, considered by many to be the more picturesque. It certainly has the most interesting Castelle (the series of ancient look-out towers that stud Monte Argentario’s craggy coastline.) The fortresses of La Rocca, Filippo, Santa Carolina and Stella add intrigue to the otherwise peaceful landscape, reminding of more turbulent times.

Today, centuries after the land was fought over by Italy and Spain, Monte Argentario is a place associated with pleasure: cuisine, relaxation, and casual maritime charm. While there, be sure to visit the Tombolo della Feniglia nature reserve; it is an incredible wildlife habitat with beaches along the lagoon. Also adjacent to the lagoon is Orbetelleo, built between the mainland and Monte Argentario. You can catch a bus from the train station in Orbetello Scalo to the quaint pedestrian street home to numerous shops, bars and restaurants.

Recommended hotels in Monte Argentario include the Baia d’Argento, La Caletta, and the Bi-Hotel in Porto Ercole.