Off the Beaten Path: Cuenca, Spain

While many historical cities in Spain defy the march of time, Cuenca also defies gravity. Cuenca’s famous Casas Colgadas (Hanging Houses) were built into the cliffs overlooking the Huecar River Gorge back in the 15th century and many of them are still doing their centuries-old balancing act. But this city of 53,000 located 166 kilometres east of Madrid in Castile-La Mancha offers so much more.

If Cuenca’s street plan makes little sense, it’s because the city, built for defense high atop a rugged rocky promontory between the Júcar and Huécar rivers, was built according to its difficult surroundings. The city can be divided into the high section, dating back to the 8th century when the Moors first built a fort called “Kunka,” and the lower part, which only dates back to the 18th century.

Catedral de Nuestra Señora de Gracia

Along with the 18th century Convent of Las Petras and the 1762 Town Hall, La Plaza Mayor (the Town Square) is where you’ll find the starting points of virtually every city tour. It’s also where you’ll find the Catedral de Nuestra Señora de Gracia.  Built from 1182 to 1270, this is the oldest Gothic Cathedral in Spain, though the present façade only dates from 1902. With the 15th century anse-aisle, 16th century Renaissance Arch and 18th century main altar, the magnificent Cathedral is actually the result of many centuries of work.

Convento de San Pablo de Cuenca

Offering Rococo style in all its glory, the Saint Paul Convent dates back to the 16th century when it was built by the monks of the Dominican Order. The complex remained a convent until as recently as 1975, when the monks left, and in the 1990s, the convent was restored as it became the four-star luxury Parador de Turismo de Cuenca. The monks’ loss is your gain, and a stay in the hotel provides an intimate view into Cuenca’s rich history. Stroll the cloister and see its ornamental water source. The chapel is now a cafeteria, and there are modern luxuries that the monks would have frowned upon, like the swimming pool, the sauna, the gym and the wireless internet access. The old town can be reached by crossing the Bridge of San Pablo, and ther are also views of the Hanging Houses.

El Castillo

If you want to go further back in history, El Castillo (the Castle) is where you’ll find the remains of an ancient Arab fortress. Only a tower, two stone blocks and a fragment of the walls are left, as well as the Arco de Bezudo, the arch separating the old town from the Barrio del Castillo and is named after Gutierre Rodriguez Bezudo, who won Cuenca from the Moors by the side of King Alfonso VIII. The Castle’s dark history also includes time spent as the headquarters of the Inquisition after 1583, and the damge you see was done by French soldiers during the 19th century Spanish War of Independence.

Museo de Cuenca

If you want to go even further back in history, you can head to the Museo de Cuenca, which features many artifacts from pre-Christian Cuenca. Here you’ll see remnants from the Moors and from the Visigoths before them. Column capitals, precious metalwork and coins from the nearby Roman towns of Segóbriga, Valeria and Ercávica are also on display, and there are even prehistoric relics, showing just how long the area has been occupied. The museum’s location in the Casa Curato de San Martín gives it a more intimate feel then you’ll find in most museums.

Museo de Arte Abstracto Español

Something old surrounding something new. That’s what you’ll find in the two 15th century hanging houses now hosting the Spanish Museum of Abstract Art. The museum was opened in 1966 by local artist and photographer Fernando Zóbel in what had been his home. It features the work of Antoni Tàpies, Antonio Saura, Eduardo Chillida, Pablo Serrano and many more. It also features some spectacular views of the Huecar River Gorge.

Las Casas Colgadas

And then there’s the main attraction; the famous Casas Colgadas. Designated a National Heritage Site by UNESCO along with the rest of the walled town in 1996, their 15th century origin is wrapped in mystery. Excursions head out to the houses every half hour from the Cuenca tourist office, and one of the best places to get a photo is from the bridge of San Pablo. In addition to housing the Museum of Abstract Art, the Hanging Houses also houses the Meson Casas Colgadas, a traditional restaurant set in the “House of the Siren that offers one of Spain’s most awesome tableside views.

Cuisine

And while we’re on the subject of food, there are many dishes you should try while you’re in the city. Cuenca cuisine is a combination of the surrounding Serranía and Mancha Regions. Local specialties include Trucha, which is grilled trout from nearby mountain rivers, and Setas, which are a wide variety of mushrooms gathered from the surrounding forests. Ajo Arriero, is a spread made from cod, potato and garlic, can be spread on bread, while Cordero, is the youngest of lamb, yielding the most tender of meat. For a special treat, try the pâté called Morteruelo, made from hare, partridge, hen and pork, and for dessert, the Alajú, a cake made of honey, almonds, nuts and grated orange rind, hearkens back to the days of the Moors.

Festivals

There’s no better way to experience a new place than by seeing how they party, and if you’re lucky enough to be in Cuenca during one of their festivals, you’re in for a great time. The San Julián Fair at the end of August features bullfights, and if that’s a little too much for you, there are also parades with floats, theatre events, concerts in San Julián Park, parties and sports activities.

On September 21st, Cuenca celebrates the Feast of San Mateo, which commemorates the conquest of the city by Alfonso the 8th from the Moors in 1177. The transfer of the Banner of Alfonso the 8th from the Cathedral to the Consistorial Houses and back the next day is an impressive and solemn event. Then there’s the fun part – the running of the bulls which has taken place in the main square for centuries. The celebration continues with parties, concerts, contests, fireworks, and cultural activities. If you’re plan to attend either festival, be sure to book your Cuenca hotel room early, as they do fill up fast.

This Cuenca video can show you more.