Focus on Santander, Spain

It’s funny how some cities get all the hype and others don’t. When you think of Spain, you think of Madrid, Barcelona, Sevilla or San Sebastian and Bilbao in the north. Sadly missing from this list is the northern coastal city of Santander. The capital and largest city of the province of Cantabria features a compact historic center and a handful of beautiful beaches, along with a history that stretches back before the Roman Empire. In Roman times, this was known as Portus Victoriae Iuliobrigensium, and its present name comes from Saint Andrew, whose head was supposedly brought there in the 3rd century. You may lose your head to when you see the beauty of the city that became the favoured summer residence of King Alfonso XIII a century ago.

Palacio de la Magdalena

Speaking of Alfonso, the palace he built between 1908 and 1912 has become Santander’s most popular destination. This was his summer residence from 1913 until 1930, the year before the birth of the short-lived Second Spanish Republic. The Palacio de la Magdalena was used by the King for many recreational and sporting activities. Then in 1932 it hosted summer courses of the Menéndez Pelayo International University. A historical monument since 1982, the palace now delights visitors with its opulence and its eclectic style, which combines English, French, and Spanish motifs. The highlight of the interior is the reception rooms, which hold paintings of interest by artists such as Luis Benedito, Joaquín Sorolla y Bastida, and Fernando Alvarez Sotomayor. And don’t miss the stables which emulate a medieval English village its sharp roofs of steep slopes and wooden tiles.

Catedral de Santa Maria de la Asunción

As in every other city in Spain, you can’t go wrong with a visit to the Cathedral. This one was built between the 12th and 14th centuries atop the 8th century Abbey of the Holy Bodies, and if you go far enough back, this was the spot where the original Roman settlement had been located. Which makes sense, as the Cerro de Somorrostro, the hill all these structures have occupied, made for a location that must have been easy to defend – especially when surrounded by water. The Catedral de Santa Maria de la Asunción is separated into two parts; the Church of the Christ, which is the old section below and is now a vaulted crypt, and the Cathedral-Basilica of Santander above. Unfortunately the Cathedral lost a lot of its treasures in a large fire in 1941, but some survived. Luckily most of the decoration of the arches, columns, entablature and doorways is preserved.

The Gran Casino del Sardinero

From one extreme to the other, we go to the Gran Casino del Sardinero, which, I’m sorry, is every bit as impressive as its more famous counterpart in Monte Carlo. This one was designed in 1916 by architect Eloy Martínez del Valle. Inside you’ll find more than just roulette and baccarat. You’ll also find dance, dramatic plays, musicals and operas being performed. You’ll also find slot machines, a restaurant, three dining rooms and two bars, as well as a café and a party room. You’ll also find blackjack, poker and electronic roulette. Check out the works of art on the walls. And if you’re in town at the right time you can also check out one of the regularly scheduled cultural and sporting events, photographic contests, sculpture and painting exhibitions, bowling, football, rowing and other activities. And then there’s the Texas Hold ‘em Tournament. Not bad for a casino that you’ve probably never heard of.

Museo de Prehistoria y Arqueología de Cantabria

There aren’t many parts of Europe that can call the Romans new-comers, but Santander and the surrounding area was one of the earliest places inhabited by humans in all of Europe. If you don’t believe me, then head to the Museo de Prehistoria y Arqueología de Cantabria. Here in this charmingly small museum you’ll find around 1,200 local artifacts dating all the way back to the Paleolithic and Neolithic eras. And yes, there are more recent objects as well, such as the Roman items left over from the colonies of Juliobriga and Castro Urdiales, in addition to an amazing Medieval collection which includes an ivory belt buckle from the nearby Santa Maria de Hito archaeological site.

Beaches

And then there are the beaches. There are far too many to do justice in this little article, so here’s a brief overview of some of the best. The Playa de la Concha is a 250 metre urban beach with golden sand alongside a lively promenade. Creature comforts such as parking, showers, public toilets, sunshades and sunbeds are complimented by many nearby restaurants and shops. If you’re looking for a Blue Flag beach, head to Playa del Sardinero. At 1,300 metres long, this is the city’s longest and most popular, featuring a park at one end. Check it out Sunday morning when locals meet to play “palas”, a game played with wooden bats and a small ball. Playa Mataleñas is a beautiful bay on Santander’s outskirts which is overlooked by green fields and rocky cliffs, and Playa de los Bikinis got its name when the ladies got less modest at the end of Franco’s regime in the 1970s.

Hotels

Santander boasts a wide variety of hotels. The Hotel Real is a five-star luxury accommodation that’s more like a palace than a hotel. A good choice for a budget accommodation that’s centrally located is the Hotel Antoyana, and if you’d like the reliability of a chain hotel, there’s the three-star NH Ciudad de Santander Hotel. Offering the best view of Sardinero Beach is the Hotel Chiqui, and the closest hotel to the airport is the two-star Hotel Hiblanc.