Europe’s Best Carnivals
Though New Orleans may boast about their non-stop partying on Mardi Gras, and every Carioca’s chest swells at the mention of Rio de Janeiro’s all-night Carnival Parade, the truth is that Europe is also full of amazing Carnival celebrations. Celebrating the period of fun, feasting and merrymaking just before Lent’s 40 days of abstinence, it’s no wonder Carnival is such a raucous affair. If you’re lucky enough to be anywhere near any of the following cities (and many others) around March 8th, you are in for a treat.
Carnevale di Venezia, February 26-March 8
The largest Carnival celebration in Europe, the Carnevale di Venezia has been going strong since it first started back in the 15th century – with a slight break when Mussolini banned the festival’s iconic masks. The ban long over, Venice’s Carnival celebration is a feast for all the senses, with endless concerts, copious amounts of food and costumed ball after costumed ball after costumed ball. The highlight of the festival and of the city’s annual social calendar is the Gran Ballo delle Maschere (Grand Masked Ball) which takes place in different venues each year. The slightest of sampling of events would include “Hot Chocolate in Costume” at the Cafè Lavena, “Diner dansant” at the exclusive Hotel Danieli and “Carnival Dream,” held at the Dandolo Palace Hotel and costing only 450,00 €. Oh, that’s the other thing. Many of the events can be quite expensive. But even if you’re on a budget, there’s plenty to see, do, listen to and eat. Just be sure to book your Venice hotel well ahead of time, as St. Mark’s Square alone is known to burst at the seams with 150,000 people!
Rijeka Carnival, March 5-8
With Rio and Venice the undisputed giants in the Carnival world, there are several cities vying for the number three spot. You may be surprised to learn that the strongest contender is the Rijeka Carnival in the Croatian city of Rijeka. Over 20,000 participants and more than 6, 00,000 visitors make this the ultimate celebration. Starting with the Rijeka Carnival Queen Pageant and culminating with the spectacular masked parade, the Rijeka’s Carnival offers concerts, exhibitions, shows, masquerades and parties. There’s even a Children’s Carnival Parade just for the little ones. Rijeka also offers many less traditional events, like the masked Pariz-Bakar auto rally, a parody to the world famous Paris-Dakar race, and the Croatia Carnival Snowboard Session which utilizes an artificial slope in the middle of the city. As in Venice, you’ll want to make your Rijeka reservations early.
Carnaval de Binche, March 5-8
If snowboarding and an auto race strike you as odd non-traditional Carnival behavior, the Carnaval de Binche in Binche Belgium proves that some traditions can be even odder. For example, when was the last time you were pelted by oranges by a group of men in green costume? That’s exactly what happens in Binche, where young men and boys hurls oranges into the crowd as the older men dance while dressed in a variety of fantastic costumes and green-eyed masks. Though the festivities in this town of 32,000 people are dwarfed in size by the more famous Carnival celebrations, you can’t say they lack originality. The orange tossing and much of the rest of the events take place around the historical town hall, and of course there many opportunities to sample traditional food and watch traditional entertainment. If you’re not able to find a hotel room in town, you might consider staying in the larger cities of La Louvière, 8.5 kilometres to the north or Charleroi, 21 kilometres to the east.
Kölner Karneval, March 3-March 9
Another contender for the number three spot is the Kölner Karneval, or Cologne Carnival, which has been celebrated in this cathedral city since 1341. With over a million and half visitors, the Kölner Karneval rivals Bavaria’s famed Oktoberfest in size and in fun. The Rose Parade alone attracts over a million spectators, and if you want to buck tradition, you can catch the Stunksitzung, a leftist comedy show which pokes fun at the official carnival Sitzungen (stage shows) and politics. As in most Carnival’s Cologne’s features colourful floats in huge parades with the singing of old Karneval songs and costumed figures throwing candy and flowers into the crowd. Be sure to find yourself a costume, or you’ll be the only one I the crowd without one. But be sure not to wear your favorite tie on Weiberfastnacht (Women’s Carnival Day), because that’s the day when women are allowed to cut the tie off any man they can reach. The plus side is that they can also kiss any man they want. Though there are a wide variety of Cologne hotels, you may never see the inside of your room, as the bars have no closing time during Carnival, making it an all-night party.
Carnevale di Viareggio, February 20 and 27, March 6, 8 and 13
Set on the Tuscan coast and attended by over a million people, the Carnevale di Viareggio offers a magical atmosphere created by the wonderful floats in its parades. Set on the waterfront, the massive floats, many taller than the surrounding buildings, present larger than life characters, whose arms and legs are animated by a crew of artists hidden inside. Each float is created by a local artist, and each takes a year to complete. Which explains why the parade is repeated not only on Shrove Tuesday, but on the three Sundays before and the Sunday following. The other draw of the Viareggio Carnevale is all the amazing food to be had. Many restaurants actually feature special carnival menus. Look for the Carnevale pastries called frittelle di riso and cenci. The day is started and ended with three blasts from a cannon. But the end is only the beginning, as sunset brings a multitude of the most fantastic costumes and sublime smells from the traditional local seafood kitchens dotting the harbour and the central market. Don’t expect to sleep much if your hotel is in these areas.
